Bangkok (Day 10) - The Ride Home

"After being cleaned and oiled, and regulated, my watch slowed down to that degree that it ticked like a tolling bell. I began to be left by trains, I failed all appointments, I got to missing my dinner; my watch strung out three days' grace to four and let me go to protest; I gradually drifted back into yesterday, then day before, then into last week, and by and by the comprehension came upon me that all solitary and alone I was lingering along in week before last, and the world was out of sight."

- Mark Twain, My Watch: An Instructive Little Tale

     After the plane landed, I walked with my backpack and oversized carry on green plastic bag full of the knick knacks I could not fit into my suit case. I decided to head to the ladies before I was outnumbered by the baggage I had to physically carry.

   There were three cubicles. One for the handicapped, one was being repaired and the middle one had a children cubicle attached. I went into the middle one and for a moment I was bewildered by the technological advances in the washroom. It reminded me of how long ago, in Japan, I had problems figuring out how to make the toilet bowl do one specific thing: flush.

   A wave of nostalgic washed over me. I didn't know whether to laugh or cry that of all things, it was a toilet bowl that triggered yet again a strong longing to visit Japan. It was not only that I enjoyed being in Japan most of all, but now it was the one place I could not go. I had promised ZM that I would not visit Japan till we bore all our children. In a moment of weakness, ZM said we could fly to Tokyo because I was so sad. But, I couldn't in the end bring him to Japan when I saw how neurotic he was over the radiation.

  I didn't know how or when, but now the longing for Japan coalesced with the longing for my mother. Both places so out of reach - one spanning oceans and time, the other set adrift in the space of infinity.

  Oh, many people have given me an escape clause - tried to rationalise how going to Japan will be no more harmful than say (insert parallel universe Japan example). But, escaping was never the point - it was always about not escaping. About respecting people's inner fears about the great unknown and figuring out the best way to live, despite all the potential fallouts and harms along the way. It is not yet being a mother, but trying one's best to figure out how to love something or someone I could not yet comprehend.

   ZM and I always laughed that we were couples out of time - that we lived in two different time zones. I taking the earlier flight booked by my company, and he taking the later cheaper flight an hour behind. Silently, I walked past the duty free shops and headed to the arrival counter where nothing makes you feel more like a local than enjoying benefits that foreigners do not.

   I was back. Back from the ten days in Bangkok - the last place my family visited together, a place honestly I would not have probably gone back so soon if not for work. I saw you everywhere, as if we were a film, and it was still playing in a theatre quietly as the world moved on. I imagined you greeting me as I stepped out of the gates back to Singapore, or one of those family members tip-toeing at the glass ledge and scrutinising the people at the luggage belt.

   I read many stories while I was in Bangkok. One of them had an ending where the main character anticipated for a day when a scar stopped hurting anymore - it would just be a reminder of what it was, but it would no longer hurt. I thought grief would be like that, but it isn't. It is the lack of a scar that is my grief- the lack of anything to latch on or to grapple with. That lack of... anything.

   This middle-aged lady asks each person at the taxi stand two questions. "How many people are you travelling with?" and "Chrysler or taxi?" I am bemused. I wonder if there are other countries in this world where you are asked if you would like a Chrysler or a taxi.

  She points me to number 13 and I roll my over-sized luggage over. We fit everything into the boot. The radio plays the kind of chinese songs that always makes my heart hurt. I tell him our address and fall back into the seat. As the roads and flowers roll by, I realised I am glad to be home. 

Taiwan (12) - Day 8 - Danshui (Finishing Line)

     It's satisfying to finally finish the series of entries about the Taiwan trip. I kind of faltered halfway but I was always determined to finish it, because it was such an integral point in our immediate grieving. I started to write the 我和她 series in Taiwan, when in my heart and mind, there had previously been such abject silence - it was strange, and even unnerving, to suddenly have words pour into my head. My Mandarin was painful and stilted... which gelled I guess with my own feelings. The second or third entry in the 我和她 series talked about how I could only use Mother Tongue to write about my mother... it may seem strange now, since I have written in English about her, but at that point in time, that was the only way I could verbalise/filter out my thoughts. Mandarin in some ways... feels like my origin of things, as she is to me. 

     My mum, my origin of things. 

    On the last day of Taiwan, we went to so many places - Danshui to buy our caps (see above), Ximending so Dad could eat his favourite steak again. P was extending her trip by two days to shop with her friends. 

      After seeing Cijin Island, Danshui was rather plain. It was foggy, I think, that day. It was windy. We walked along the border. Sensing Dad's loneliness for a moment, I held his hand. He was surprised. I laughed. 

     We walked for a while, then reached the market. Dad let go of my hand so I could join P. 

     That was our last day. 

Taiwan (11) - Hotels for Taipei/ Beitou

1) Star Beauty Hotel for Taipei (Stayed 3 Nights) 

  For Taipei, it was pretty hard to find a good hotel since I was booking it one week in advance and looking for a triple room. All the really good ones were booked! I finally settled on Star Beauty Hotel after comparing reviews from various sites. 

   There's another bed which I did not photograph. The hotel room was really spacious and the toilet was incredibly big. It's about 10 minutes walk from Shilin Night Market (the reason why I chose it) and 10 minutes walk from Jian Tan metro station (劍潭). 

   The triple room costs $180 per night, which is twice the price of the family room at Kaoshiung! Which I think provides a good contrast of the business development in Taipei and Kaoshiung. 

     It included breakfast buffet, which was quite decent but not as good as the one in Kaoshiung. I liked that it was spacious, relatively modern and very clean. I would recommend the hotel if you love Shilin Night Market - it was convenient in the sense that after a day of travelling, Dad would return to the hotel (there was a fruit market next to our hotel which he loved) while P and I would shop at the Shilin Night Market till it closed (truer words have never been spoken). 

       Still, after the trip, I realised Dad and P liked Ximending for the food and shopping, so I would probably stay around that area the next time. I stayed at a hotel at Ximending for my last two trips, and I noticed that the hotels there are much smaller  - the usual location/size trade-off. 

2) Spring Sweetme Resort for XinBeitou (New Beitou Station) (Stayed 2 Nights) 

    It wasn't easy choosing a suitable Hot Spring Resort either because a lot of the hot spring resorts offer two pax rooms - catering mainly for couples. My favourite hot spring resort is actually YangMingShan Landis - but again it's more for couples and at the YangMingShan area. There's a range of prices for hot spring resorts - the lower range from $80 to $150, middle range $200-$350, and higher range of $400 above. Some tourists just choose to visit in the day, but I unabashedly belong to the group of staying at least two nights at a hot spring resort. If I had my way, I would hardly leave the resort. 

    If you want to compare the hot spring resorts in Taiwan to Japan - I can immediately tell you that  the Japanese hot spring resorts win. No doubt. I've stayed at Hakone (near Fuji) and Noboribetsu Hell Valley (in Hokkaido) and the level of the hot springs and service is almost miles apart. But, still, compared to Singapore with non-existent hot spring facilities, it's still great fun to just enjoy what's on offer. 

    Yes, you have to be nude when using the hotel hot springs. If that's a problem, just book a private room or use the hot spring facilities in your bathroom. So, be very sure, to pick a hotel with a hot spring tub in the bathroom.

  

     The hot spring tub in the bathroom is really large! I was satisfied. All hotel guests also get one complimentary use of the hotel hot springs per day - this would include sauna, jacuzzi, cold hot springs, etc.

      I picked the Japanese Family Room at Spring Sweetme Resort ($295 per night) because it's only 5 minutes from XinBeitou metro station - knowing my family, we would be travelling a lot. It's in the middle of everything really, so the location is great. The buffet breakfast is also great. If you are travelling with guests who are older and may have back problems, I suggest picking the Western Rooms instead because the futons given were not as luxurious as the ones provided in Japan.

     Have fun! They provide lots of tea and tea snacks in the room as well. I also recommend the apple cider which you can buy in the supermarket next door.

   Just imagine - you just finished soaking in the hot springs, wearing the yukata they provided, and settled down to watch television on the futon with your hot tea/biscuits/apple cider. Heaven.

 

Taiwan (10) - Day 7 - Beitou (Hot Springs)

 

   I tried my best to arrange a holiday that would suit all our needs - Dad's love of walking, nature and sight-seeing (with an abhorrence of shopping), P's love of pretty things, treats and shopping (with an abhorrence of general scenery) and my own preference for quiet time. My penchant was for a more relaxing and leisured holiday - but Dad's a morning monkey and P's a night owl, and if I had my way, they would say I should have just stayed in Singapore.

   The hot spring portion of the holiday should have been my favourite longed for rest after all the travelling and walking of the previous days - but no - I had really active traveling companions. We quickly checked in and had to go find lunch for Dad. I didn't even get to soak in the hot springs yet!

   With that said, Beitou is quite a lovely quaint place to explore. No exciting shopping, but it has lovely food shophouses and a small night market on the developed side. On the other side, you can walk to the museums, old wooden houses and the geothermal hot springs. You could dip your feet into the warm geothermal waters along the way.

   We visited one of the aboriginal museums and they had a special dance performance in the park. They were all young teenagers and they twittered and giggled embarrassingly before it started. But after it started, with the music, the sun, the trees, oh it felt really wonderful. There is always a sense of home in nature - a place where you can be free. A place where you should forget all your human shackles that causes you to be overly self aware and conscious - for is there anything more natural than laughing and dancing freely with your friends?

   And, at the end of it, there was this sense of triumphant pride that had been building up during the dance. That was me, it seemed to say, that was me. 

Taiwan (9) - Day 5 - Pingxi Branch Railway Line (平溪支線)

 

     It was P's birthday and we set off towards the Pingxi Branch Railway Line to head towards the small towns (such as Ruifang, Shifen, Pingxi and Jingtong) to release a paper lantern of wishes.

   It was really quite a long journey - considering all the traveling we had done in the last few days. We kept falling asleep on the train, drooping with exhaustion and a kind of unexplained for longing.

     First, you go to the Taipei Railway Station and take a train to Ruifang. There is really nothing to do in Ruifang - we walked the streets and it was like walking in your own heartland neighborhood, except this is the Taiwan neighborhood. You will have to buy a One Day Pass at Ruifang station and then wait for the trains on the Pingxi Branch Railway Line to go to the more touristy towns such as Huotong (Cat Village), Shifen, Pingxi and Jingtong. Depending if it's a weekday or a weekend, the frequency of the trains take at least 45 minutes. 

  The dessert shop near the Ruifang Train Station is quite good! 

     

      The train finally arrived (the first of many to come) and we sat on the train to the end of the line. There is always something fascinating about the end of the line. A declaration that the train stops here, but your life goes on.

      After exploring Jingtong, we headed to Pingxi. Although the trains were always full, the people always seemed to disappear once you walk through the towns. To where, I do not know. When there is no pulse on the street, the only thing you hear is your heartbeat.

    We walked all the way down the hill and reached this place with a little bridge over a long lake. In front, there were mountains ahead. A group of Japanese tourists were releasing paper lanterns. One burst into flames before it could fly. 

      We walked down a little further to a shop which had no one. We then began writing wishes. 

     When the lady boss lit up our lantern, the lantern started to balloon with a ferocious heat. When it became full, we nervously let go. 

       It flew as if it knew where to go. 

       Heading towards the line between heaven and earth. 

      "Mum always wanted to release a lantern," Dad said with a note of longing and satisfaction in his voice. He repeated it again and again. 

        As the lantern disappeared from our eyes, I asked, "Do you think it reached her?" 

        "I'm sure it did," He said, "I'm sure it did." 

       

Taiwan (8) - Practical Tips regarding Kaoshiung

Buffet Breakfast at Kindness Xiong Zhong Hotel 

      I was helped tremendously by many online resources when I was planning the Taiwan trip (Dad practically gave me one day to plan all the details!) and I thought it would be nice if I shared some of the tips here for anyone who wants to go to Kaoshiung. I really liked Kaoshiung - it's not what I would call exciting, but homely. Kind of like the good earnest cousin of Taipei that you want to give a good big hug, because he is just that nice and sincere. 

    1) Travelling from Taoyuan Airport (Taipei) to Kaoshiung (THSR Zuoying) 

     There are many ways to travel from Taoyuan Airport to Kaoshiung - you could take train or bus, even if you choose to travel by train, there appears to be a wide array of options! My preferred pick was to travel by the High Speed Railway Train - it only takes one and a half hours and the trains are extremely comfortable and well-organised. 

     Basically, you take a shuttle bus from Taoyuan Airport to THSR Taoyuan (it's about 15 minutes) and then you can redeem the tickets you booked online. The excellent thing is that you can change your tickets if you change it 30 minutes before the booked journey. So, I usually booked trains with a buffer of two to three hours and then change the tickets when I arrive at the station. This is because I'm always wary of budget airlines delaying their flights. This worked out relatively well as we never had a problem changing to the earliest trains at our convenience - though this might not work as well if you travel at absolutely peak periods. But, the frequency of the trains one/two trains per hour I think prevents any long wait. 

   After you arrive at THSR Zuoying, you can just take the metro to reach the city centre at Kaoshiung Main Station. Note that the metro is very efficient so you can choose to stay at a hotel around THSR Zuoying as well. 

     2) Hotel at Kaoshiung 

    We stayed at Kindness Xiong Zhong Hotel, which is everything a budget friendly hotel needs to be. It was extremely clean and spacious (except for the bathroom), had a truly awesome breakfast buffet, extremely dedicated staff and lots of extra amenities and services for guest (such as free tea, free icecream, free bicycles, etc). It's a ten minutes walk from Liuhe Night Market and five minutes from Kaoshiung Main Station. It costs about $90 per night for a family room (fits 4 pax) and I booked this one week before we arrived. 

3) Accomodations at Fo Guang Shan Monastery 

   This is the direct link to the accomodations page for Fo Guang Shan Monastery as the main homepage is rather hard to navigate.  From there, you will get the number to contact them if you want to make reservations for a tour or accommodations, there are two places you can stay: 朝山会馆 or 麻竹园. 

   I actually emailed them to make the accommodation request (fgs5000@ecp.fgs.org.tw), but the email address does not seem to appear on the site anymore. But you can still try! Do note that they take days to reply your emails. Feel free to email me if you require help to email them in Mandarin - although my own Mandarin is painfully awkward. 

4) Travelling to Fo Guang Shan

  You could travel by taxi to Fo Guang Shan - it's probably faster and not expensive if you travel in a group of four. There are taxi drivers hanging around the bus stations touting taxi services/rates not by the meter. 

  We travelled by bus though since we planned to take a bus back from Fo Guang Shan and the taxi drivers were rather aggressive in getting clients, which really put us off. 

  There are two buses. One is from THSR Zuoying Station - it's just right outside and is called the E-DA bus. It departs every 30 minutes and the bus ride is about 45 minutes. This bus also goes to the E-DA factory outlet. 

   The other bus is from Kaoshiung Main Station - you walk to Kaoshiung Bus Station which is just down the road (on the left) from the train station. It's a ten minutes walk. Take bus #8010 heading to Jishan (旗山). There are more buses on the weekends. There is roughly one bus every 1 and 1/2 hours. The journey is longer for this bus - 1 and 1/2 hour. 

   We took the #8010 bus there (we stayed around Kaoshiung Main Station) and took the E-DA bus back to TSHR Zuoying Station to catch our train to Taipei. 

5) Liuhe Night Market (Opens Daily) vs Ruifeng Night Market (closed Monday & Wednesday) 

   Liuhe Night Market is more famous but Ruifeng Night Market has by far better food and shopping. One of P's friend was doing exchange in Kaoshiung and recommended the following food at Ruifeng: 

   

   For travelling in Kaoshiung, there are a whole lots of options! You could get an all day travel card for bus, train and ferry at any of the metro stations. That's what we did. But, it's not expensive to take the taxi too - and that's also what we did when we got tired. 

   Just grab a map from your hotel and go off and explore! At every corner, there will be a friendly person ready to help you. True story.